racing

Depending on the make of paddle whether it's Double Dutch paddles, Select Paddles, Tywarp Paddles, Aqua Bound Paddles or Ainsworth Paddles your paddle shaft or blade that's broken.

Heat end of paddle shaft with your hair dryer or heat gun for a couple of minutes. Don't apply to much heat or you will damage the shaft or paddle blade, you just want to heat it enough to break the glue down a bit.
Some types of glue aren’t affected by heat so you may not be able to save the shaft when taking out the blade. This is because some glues are just as heat resistant as the epoxy from the shaft itself so the glue may not melt.

Twist blade out of paddle shaft with the help of someone else. If it doesn't budge at the first attempt then more heating of the glue will be required. Get the blade turning in the shaft first and then twist and pull simultaneously to remove it.
Once you get the blade out, remove any excess glue from the spigot* with the knife. Only remove enough glue so that the spigot fits into the shaft snugly without forcing it in. If the spigot itself is too thick to fit then it may be necessary to sand it down to fit - that or a thicker shaft will be needed.
* The spigot is the end part of the blade that goes inside the shaft
When most of the excess glue is removed sand the spigot well and also the inside of the shaft. Blow or wipe away any dust after the sanding, this will allow the glue to stick better to both pieces.
Optional Step : If you need to apply shrink wrap to your paddles then slide it onto the shaft loosely for now before reinserting the blade and you can position it where you want later.

Note : Before continuing you will need to know what angle or "feather" to set your paddles to. What angle to set is very user specific so we won't go into that here but know what angle you want before you start to mix your glue!

Now you're ready for glueing. Mix the glue according to the instructions that came with it. A piece of cardboard is useful for this and can be discarded when finished.
Apply glue to spigot and inside of shaft. Make sure to get an even coating all round but don't put it on too think. A thinner layer of glue will actually stick and hold better than having a thick layer of glue between the surfaces.
Insert spigot of blade into shaft slowly, trying to keep as much of the glue inside the shaft as possible and not allow too much to be pushed out as it's inserted. Smooth the excess around the end of the paddle shaft for a nice finish.
Optional step : You can add Kevlar strands around the join of the blade and shaft for added strength. Just wrap a couple of loose strands of kevlar into the glue and smooth over.

Now you need to set the angle of your paddles before the glue sets. To change the angle, just slowly twist the blade until it looks about right, check by looking down length of paddles and by paddling a few strokes in the air.
Tip : If you're setting the angle to what you've paddled with before then when you're "air paddling", after twisting your wrist, your knuckles should be inline with edge of the blade each time.

Wrap with electrical tape to prevent any movement while the glue sets. Then just stand the paddles upright with the glued end at the top and allow to set. Depending on the type of glue you use it may take different times to set but you should allow setting overnight if possible.
Optional step : If you've decided to use shrink wrap then you can heat it on with the hair dryer at any stage now.

That's it, hopefully this tutorial will help you get back in your boat and playing polo quicker than it would have to leave your paddles into a shop for repair - should be quite a bit cheaper too